Archive for June, 2009

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Clear or Ambiguous Narratives

June 30, 2009
Over at Today’s Inspiration, Leif Peng has written a post related to an article about the illustrator Fred Ludekins on the subject of clarity as it pertains to illustration art. As it happens, I’ve been mulling over the subject that is almost the exact opposite, narrative ambiguity. I figured now would be a good time to interrupt my posts on the new painting to get these thoughts out there while they were still fresh in my mind. They may be a bit rough around the edges, so please bear with me as I think this through.
david_horatii

 

First, let’s look at “clarity” as it pertains to visual narrative. Mind you, I’m speaking only of a single still image (a painting, for example, or book illustration,) and not sequential storytelling that you might find in comics or storyboards. In my mind I describe this as being as obvious as one can be with the presentation. The artist has a very specific statement to make and what we see makes certain that there is no misunderstanding. As a representation of this I’m choosing the Jacques-Louis David painting, “Oath of the Horatii.” It’s an illustration of a scene from Roman history (as told by Pliny) where the three Horatius brothers are chosen to fight three brothers of another family, Curatius, and the winning side gets control of Rome. One of the women in the scene is supposedly a sister betrothed to a brother of the other family. The architecture and costumes properly date the scene to Roman times. When I first saw this painting, I had no idea what the story was about. What I could decipher was three men about to go off to battle, a father figure of some sort encouraging them on in glorious fashion, and weeping women in the background distraught over the fate of the soldiers. It turned out to be rather accurate. Historians have since described this work as an echo of what was happening in France at the time, as it prepared for revolution, which I’m certain is true, but there’s no give away to that effect by David. Instead, he presents the scene in a very straightforward manner.

holder_day1

Finding a representation of narrative ambiguity was harder than I imagined. At first I thought I might go for the obviously surreal, like a Dali painting, but instead I’ve settled on this by Fernand Holder, “Day 1.” The viewer is left on their own trying to decipher this work. Why five nude women? Who are they? Why are they posed this way? The title is not helpful, and really just gives us more questions. Perhaps some resourceful critic has uncovered a note by Holder himself before he went nuts that completely explains it all. It wouldn’t matter. All we see is what is in front of us. The art shouldn’t have to come with a pamphlet that tells you what the artist really meant. What we come away with is our own interpretation. We make up our own story and apply it to our satisfaction. Does this make the work weaker than one that is more explained and clear? I can see potential fault on either extreme. Tell too much and it becomes like a story to which you know the ending. Don’t tell enough and you confuse or frustrate the viewer, and risk being seen as pretentious or deliberately vague for the sake of cleverness. If the artist has done their homework, they can manage to make the ambiguous narrative less frustrating, so that it becomes like a crime scene upon which we have to collect all the hidden clues.

Let’s revisit the Holder painting and stage it differently. Just for the sake of argument, we’ll tone down the symbolic and surreal quality a bit, and see if we can still retain some level of ambiguous interest. What if the women were clothed and sitting in a park, but instead of being just a group gathered to enjoy a picnic, there seemed to be a special purpose to them being here. Perhaps they appear to be engaged in a serious discussion, and one or two of them were holding curious objects that seemed out of place in this setting. It would still be up to us to make sense of it all, if we even bother to do so. There is no need to be melodramatic or outlandish to attain clarity or ambiguity. One can also be subtle.

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Painting “Closing The Deal” Update 1

June 28, 2009

Here’s an update for the new painting I’ve started, “Closing The Deal.” The surface is Ampersand’s Aquabord (16 x 20 inches) and will be finished in casein.

Transfered drawing

Transfered drawing

In this image above I’m showing the rough transfer of the drawn layout. This was done with my homemade transfer paper system using a light gray pastel powder and turpentine. For the lines of the window blinds I used an orange watercolor pencil. To keep those pencil lines from blending into the casein paint I’ll be adding later, I painted over them with a thin layer of acrylic medium.

Gray undertones

Gray undertones

This time, instead of my usual undertone of complementary colors, I just simplified the process a bit by using shades of gray. This was made with black India ink thinned with water and a little acrylic medium to set the ink wash. Now I’m ready to begin painting.

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Sketch for New Painting

June 26, 2009
Pencil sketch

Pencil sketch

This old sketch has been sitting around awhile, so I think I’ll see if I can work it up into a new painting. It was made several years ago as I was waiting for an oil change to my car. I added the figure on the far right today to take some of the focus off the character in the corner. I’m relocating the setting to be a car dealership where he’s about to sign his life away for a new car. I think I’ll also place a few parked cars outside and change that street to a car lot. The original setting had a bright yellow table and neutral blue walls which I think I’ll keep.

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16th Century Wood Panel Restoration Video

June 25, 2009

maniardi1

There is an interesting video clip over at the Art Babble site showing the restoration efforts on a 16th century painting by Sebastiano Mainardi. Click on the image above to go there and view it.

What in particular caught my attention was how they replaced the heavy older bracing with a more effeciently designed wood strainer. Fascinating.

Old bracing removed

Old bracing removed

New strainer added

New strainer added

Video credits: Danny Beyer – The Nugget Factory, the Indianapolis Museum of Art

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Latest drawings

June 21, 2009

I’m preparing to go on a short trip for a few days so I wanted to upload a few new drawings to make up for the empty time. These are all made in graphite on letter sized paper in live locations.

The one that’s tinted is a paper from Southworth sold for printing out resumes. It’s 100% rag (32 pound) and can be found at many office supply stores. It also comes in white.

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"Dead By Night"

"Dead By Night"

sketch086

On "résumé" paper

On "résumé" paper

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Shellac Sizing Test for Oil Paint on Paper

June 13, 2009

I wanted to demonstrate how effectively shellac performs as a sizing medium for painting oils on paper. The shellac mixture below was made about half a day before the demonstration was started.

Making shellac soap

Making shellac soap

This is de-waxed pale “blonde” shellac in the bag. I ground it down into a powder to help accelerate the dissolving process. I tend to make my shellac in a rather unorthodox manner than what is normally recommended by first making a “soap” using dissolved borax. That is how shellac based ink is made. It’s approximately 1 teaspoon borax, 8 tsp water, and 5 tsp shellac. I can’t tell you the exact amount since I tend to do it by sight these days instead of careful measure. I place this in a jar and set it on a coffee warmer while stirring for a few minutes until all the water is gone and I’m left with a paste that looks like light brown sugar (see below.)

Shellac mixed with borax

Shellac mixed with borax

Next I mix in grain alcohol. Most recommended mixtures just start with dry shellac and alcohol and avoid borax, which is perfectly fine, I just found that it takes longer that way and doesn’t give any better result. The alcohol I use is the Everclear brand which is 190 proof. Denatured alcohol would work fine, but also takes longer. Keeping the jar on the warmer, I occassionally stir the contents and after about 2 or 3 hours I get something that looks like creamed coffee. The amount of alcohol is again not precisely measured but roughly about the same as the “soap” volume I started with. It amounts to what is referred to as about a 3 pound cut of shellac to alcohol. I’ve also used a 2 pound cut, but I would want to add a primer layer to that. Acrylic primers adhere fine to shellac but I wouldn’t recommend thinning them with water.

Shellac on paper with different oils

Shellac on paper with different oils

Reflecting oil swatches

Reflecting oil swatches

The paper used here is thin bristol, about 90-100 pound weight. I’m using a thin paper so that any oil that penetrates through the shellac would be easy to see. I placed two coats of shellac on both sides of the sample paper and let that dry for about an hour. Next I placed three oil medium swatches of refined linseed oil, stand oil, and safflower that I had handy.

Oils on raw paper

Oils on raw paper

Back of painted paper

Back of painted paper

In the image on the left you can see the linseed oil and stand oil on a piece of the same paper that has no sizing protection, as well as a couple oil paints from Le Franc, red ochre and paynes grey, which I believe use safflower oil. The oils started to soak into the untreated paper immediately, and when you look through the back  (right image) you can see how the oils make the paper nearly translucent. As these oils dry they will release acid that will discolor the paper and likely make it brittle over time. Shellac prevents that.

All of these were made about 5 days ago. In the image below (looking at the paper from the back) you see how the shellac has held up after that period of time and the oils have dried. None of the oil has penetrated through to the back side of the shellac treated paper.

5 days later

5 days later

Shellac is excellent sizing protection for oils and paper as well as wood. I prefer it to other choices. It does take some time to prepare, but it doesn’t require the use of water that acrylic mediums or animal glues would need, so there’s no worry about wrinkled paper. Rabbit skin glue has to be made at least a day in advance, whereas this sheet was ready for painting from start to finish in about half a day. An acrylic medium would be faster to apply, but the paper has to dry completely, requires taping down the paper, and I just don’t like the feel of oil paint on acrylic. A batch of fresh shellac will last at least six months or more. I keep it in the fridge until needed.

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Finished Drawing – Accordian Player

June 11, 2009

Here’s the finished drawing that was started a couple days ago as part of my homemade scratchboard demonstration. It is 8 x 10 inches.

raythibdo 

The ink used is Dr. Martin’s Black Star and a ZIG Calligraphy marker for touch-ups. The bulk of the white areas were made with a Staedtler Mars eraser, and a needle was used for scratching finer lines. The rough texture is a result of the paper surface. A smoother paper would erase without such a mottled look.

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Making Scratchboard From Paper – part 2

June 10, 2009

Concluding my post from yesterday, I’m showing my tests for scratching and erasing ink markers on shellac paper and primer. All of these use pigmented, lightfast, archival inks. If you test any other markers on your own, I’d recommend they be non-water soluble (water-proof or oil based) to adhere best on the shellac surfaces. These tests were on the same papers as the liquid inks that was shown yesterday.

These are the brush markers tested:
Faber-Castell PITT Sepia Artist Marker, Marvy Le Plume, Sakura Pigma Brush Pen, and Kuretake ZIG Calligraphy marker

PITT brush pen

PITT brush pen

Marvy Le Plume

Marvy Le Plume

Pigma Brush Pen

Pigma Brush Pen

ZIG Calligraphy

ZIG Calligraphy

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The best overall were the ZIG and PITT pens. Those two also dried more slowly than the others, which may account for their being easier to scratch. The effect was more like pushing or wiping the ink rather than scraping it, in this case. Although, even once they completelty dried they worked fine. They also erased the easiest.

The ZIG marker dried very black and the scratched lines were the cleanest of all. The Pigma and Le Plume brushes both dried quickly but were very gray on the primer and would not scratch or erase easily on either surface. The Le Plume marker in particular had a crackling effect as it dried similar to the Deleter liquid ink.


These are the liner pens tested:
PITT Artist Pen (Black,) Prismacolor Premier Line Marker, Sakura Pigma Micron, Staedtler Pigment Liner

PITT Artist Pen

PITT Artist Pen

Prismacolor Liner

Prismacolor Liner

Pigma Micron Pen

Pigma Micron Pen

Staedtler Liner

Staedtler Liner

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As with most things in life I suppose, not everything is interchangeable, so one pen is not like another. Although these are fine pens, just as with the other tests, the results differ. The Micron and Staedtler pens don’t scratch very well on the primer paper, but do very well on the shellac. The Prismacolor did very well on the primer, but not so well on the shellac. The PITT pen did not do well on either surface, which surprised me since the brushes did well. The ink seemed to bead up a bit on the shellac surface with all these pens, but was fine on the primer. No beading with the brush tips. The Prismacolor pen didn’t seem as dark as the others. Utimately, on the shellac surface the Micron seemed to be the best liner pen, and the Prismacolor worked best on the primed surface.

A separate note about papers: as I mentioned, the drawing in yesterday’s post was made on Multimedia Artboard, which is a favorite support of mine. It has a very hard surface, and if you happen to scratch down to it, it won’t become easily damaged as regular paper would. Another surface I’m playing with is synthetic film, such as Mylar and Yupo. Shellac seems to adhere very well to this, which surprised me, although it will scratch off if you go down too far.

Another note about shellac: the 3# shellac I used is amber in color just because that was what I had available in that weight. More than one coat may improve the test results, but also make an even darker surface color. Clear shellac is virtually colorless, and a lighter weight might work just as well. The pigment used for the primer could also be any other color besides white. I’m a bit surprised by how strong this shellac “gesso” is, and may give it tests for painting on as well. There are also pre-mixed commercial brands of shellac primers on the market, such as BIN from Zinsser, but I don’t know how they make it, or the type of shellac used (it appears to have wax content,) so I prefer to make my own which is quite easy to do.

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Ink: Making Scratchboard From Paper

June 9, 2009

Does your ink drawing have an itch? Would you like to be able to remove ink lines without having to gouge away paper along with it or mess with white paint? There are commercial scratchboards on the market that will allow you to do this (Ampersand’s Scratchbord for example,) but I have found a method to accomplish the same look using just paper. The source is my favorite magical finishing material, shellac.

Drawing in progress

Drawing in progress


Detail of drawing

Detail of drawing

Here’s a drawing in progress that shows an example of the effect. It’s made on a sheet of Multimedia Artboard with a wash of Dr. Martin’s Black Star India Ink on a single coat of shellac primer over casein paint. This first started out as a casein painting that I was unhappy with, so I covered it with the primer and make it into a drawing instead. (Question to ponder: is an ink wash actually a drawing or a painting? – Discuss…)

The materials used for my testing were as follows:
Smooth 140# Watercolor paper
3 pound blond shellac, and 2 pound blond shellac made into a primer
Scratching tools: solder tool with screwdriver and wire brush tips,
white Staedtler “Mars” eraser,
various brands of liquid ink

Some of the tools used

Some of the tools used

The surfaces were two small (A4 size) sheets of watercolor paper. One was prepared with a single coat of shellac (3# weight) and another with a primer made of 2# blond shellac. The primer was made by adding titanium white pigment and marble dust in equal amounts to an equal volume of shellac. It was applied in two coats. Both surfaces were given sufficient time to dry before inking, about 30 minutes.

The results on each surface varied depending on the inks used. For example, on the primer the sumi ink scratches very well, but won’t stick at all to the shellac paper. Deleter ink had problems on the primer, but worked fine on the shellac.

Liquid Inks tested (all were applied undiluted: )
Deleter #3, Dr. Martin’s Black Star, Higgins Black Magic, Pelikan Drawing Ink A, Sennelier Sepia, Speedball Super Black, Yasutomo Liquid Sumi Ink

Deleter

Deleter


Deleter on primer

Deleter on primer


Dr. Martin's

Dr. Martin's


Higgins

Higgins


Pelikan Ink

Pelikan Ink


Sennelier Sepia Ink

Sennelier Sepia Ink


Speedbal Super Black

Speedbal Super Black


Sumi Ink

Sumi Ink


Sumi on primer

Sumi on primer


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Although the Deleter ink has a crackled surface on the primer, it doesn’t seem to be flaking off; unfortunately, it doesn’t scratch off very well on either surface. Dr. Martin’s has a lighter value than the others and would need multiple layers to be darker. It scratches off easily but not too cleanly. It was, however, the easiest to erase which removes a larger area of ink (see my drawing example above.) Speedball performed the same as Dr. Martin’s but it’s a darker ink. Both Higgins and Pelikan scratched a little easier, but didn’t erase as well. The sumi would not erase at all, but was the easiest to scratch away, and you can see that it will only adhere to the primer, not the shellac by itself. All these liquid inks dried quickly on both surfaces.

In conclusion, if you want to use liquid ink that both scratches and erases easily, try either Dr. Martin’s or Speedball. Erasing is harder to do on the shellac, easier on the primer. If you only want to scratch lines, the sumi ink was best followed by Pelikan, or Higgins.

Next time I’ll post results from testing pigmented ink markers and my recommendations.

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Sketching Techniques

June 5, 2009

I thought I’d take a moment to talk about some of my sketches, and show a few recent ones. Whether I’m drawing in a live location, such as a park or library, or indoors in a studio setting I still tend to work in a similar manner, which is to begin quickly and cover the page with the whole scene or model, and then finish it up more slowly. The first marks are roughed in shape outlines that layout the page, followed by flat areas of shading for the middle and darkest tones. Once everything is placed, then I can start refining the drawing, and if my preliminary sketch is accurate enough, I can easily finish it hours later.

Linguistics lecture

Linguistics lecture


I hope you can get a sense for those early stages in this drawing of a live lecture I attended a few months ago.

I tend to prefer to leave as much of the preliminary marks as possible so that the viewer can see the process. When working in graphite, I very seldom erase any marks unless I think they need to be lighter. Drawing is like carving. I often sketch in ink as well, usually with a marker pen.

I work in pencil very much like I draw in ink, meaning I rarely do any soft blending, concentrating on the contour direction and using cross-hatched lines; although, I do also take advantage of the light to dark values that graphite offers. This is what I enjoy about paint also, where the marks are allowed to be marks, and not hidden by a mechanical technique. Some people may be afraid of sketching in ink due to the permanency of it and being unable to make corrections. If they draw in pencil in the same manner it can help build up their courage.

From a photo of my hand

From a photo of my hand


From paused TV screens

From paused TV screens

I sometimes use my own photos for reference, especially if I need to act out the scene. Another good source is pausing the television screen or DVD. Don’t hesitate to ask your friends. Often they will be very flattered to act as models for you.

Drawing of a friend

Drawing of a friend


From a paused DVD

From a paused DVD


Drawing a live performance

Drawing a live performance


While at the library

While at the library

This last drawing began at a local library. As she sat in front of me, engrossed in her activity, I made a very fast sketch of her on the page, and only occassionally looked in her direction so as not to make her feel uncomfortable. All I needed was to record where to place everything accurately, and then it was no longer necessary for me to look at her so I could finish the drawing later. It was sketched in pen, and the dark area of the chair was made with a litho crayon.

One last point: none of my sketches are precious commodities to me. They are just notes. I have no problem discarding or redrawing them. Most of them only exist now as digital scans. There’s always more where they came from.