Here’s the final state of the drawing; although, I’d like to add a background to make it a finished drawing once I decide what that’s going to be.
Archive for February, 2017
Following the previous post, I decided to go ahead with the staining of the frame molding. Even though I didn’t like the splotchy look, I found I could even it out by painting over it with burnt umber acrylic that was a good match to the stain color. I kept the paint relatively thin to allow for some of the wood grain to still show through. You can see the effect of the stain that I applied first in the center detail. I then gave two coats of acrylic to the other areas, front and sides.
Here is the painting laying under the frame with a sheet of acrylic glazing cut to fit. I’ll give the frame a glossy spray coating tomorrow, and I still need to add backing and string a wire to the back. This will be delivered to the exhibit next week, so look for an announce here in a few days about the opening.
I got a response to the art I had entered for an upcoming show, and both pieces were accepted, including the painting I posted recently with a mat I had made. So, now I can go ahead and finish a frame for that painting.
I decided to make one myself out of raw wood instead of buying it in order to test out the 45 degree corner jig I made recently, which works fine. I also tested out some dark red mahogany stain on a sample piece of the molding.
I’m afraid I don’t like the way this wood takes the stain, however. It looks splotchy and appears like the wood was burnt in a fire. Not what I want. I can still use the molding, but will have to spray paint it a solid color. I also tested out a little bit of accent color of blue and gold on that interior pattern that I think might work, and a spray gloss finish. Anyway, I’ll finish putting the frame together and show the results after I get it painted.
I used a few pieces of scrap wood today to make a simple table saw jig to cut 45 degree angles for mitred corners. My push guide was not all that accurate, so this will help me cut better fitting corners for frames.
It’s made of two pieces of 1 x 2″ strips screwed together at 90 degree angles with the their ends cut at 45 degrees. I added to smaller strips of wood to the edges: one long one in the front to support tall wood pieces that might be cut, and a small strip to attach the jig to the push guide. The guide has two grooves in it for blots to attach the jig, but I didn’t have the right size bolts handy. In the meantime I can just use a clamp.
Still to do: If I add a piece of wood extension to the back of the jig where the push guide is, I can attach a wood strip on the bottom that fits into the table groove so I won’t have to use the push guide at all.