Archive for May, 2014

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Drawing Final: Watching Passing Clouds

May 29, 2014

passingclouds7

Okay, so I decided to do something a little radical and crop off about 3 inches from the top of the drawing. It just wasn’t helping the composition. I spray-fixed the whole thing before darkening the background, and also darkened up shadows around the figure. I’ll set it aside for now for study, and possibly touch up some areas later.

passingclouds7c passingclouds7b

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Drawing Update 5: Watching Passing Clouds

May 20, 2014

I’ve got the background completely roughed in now. I’ll make it darker at the top after I get the grass area finished.

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You can see the grass texture that I’ve started at the bottom left corner. I’m using a rubber-tipped “color-shaper” tool for this, and will need to make these marks smaller and less distinct as they recede into the distance behind her.

passingclouds6B

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Drawing Update 4: Watching Passing Clouds

May 15, 2014

Now she has her legs drawn in. I’ll attack the background next, and work down to the foreground.

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passingclouds5B

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Drawing Update 3: Watching Passing Clouds

May 10, 2014

Just a little bit more to show on the drawing. I’ve worked on her left arm and the rest of her dress. I’ll try and get her legs done tomorrow.

passingclouds4
passingclouds4B

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Fixative Spray on Charcoal Drawings

May 4, 2014

krylon-fixatif

I wanted to take a moment during the process of this charcoal drawing I’m working on to share my experience with using fixative sprays. The purpose of a fixative (a.k.a. fixatif) is to adhere the loose dry mediums like charcoal, pastel, or graphite to the surface and prevent them from smearing. This is accomplished by acrylic resin in the spray.

Most fixatives come in spray cans. There are “workable” or “final” options. Final is essentially a varnish. “Workable” is what I prefer to always use. This type allows me to continue to add more drawing to the surface if I choose; whereas, a final should only be used when the drawing is finished. I get best results by holding the can no closer than a foot from the surface, preferably outside in a slight breeze that will diffuse the spray more. 1 coat is adequate for the lighter shaded areas, but the darker areas will need more. You can still lighten (but not completely erase) areas that have only 1 coat, and dark areas would still smear, but 2 or 3 coats cannot be erased or smeared. Let the spray dry about 10 minutes between coats, and an hour before drawing over the workable sprayed area.

fixatif_charcoal-sample1

I want to be certain that any loose charcoal powder is off the drawing before I spray it. First, I’ll tap the back of the drawing facedown over some newspaper to get off as much as I can. If you hold the can too close to the drawing, the air will blow around any loose powder, which can be a problem in carefully rendered areas. Spray the fixative in a direction where any blown powder will cause the least noticeable problem, ideally off the edge of the paper, or across dark areas. You can also mask areas with sheets or pieces of torn paper.

Krylon Workable Fixative is the brand I currently use. I’ve seen online that this is described as being available in Matte or Gloss, which is incorrect. Their Matte Finish (#1311) is not workable. Get the one with “Workable Fixatif” #1306 on the label, which is described as “gloss” but I don’t notice that except on graphite or charcoal pencils, and even then it’s more “satin” than “gloss.” The fumes are very strong, so you must use this in a well-ventilated area, and keep the work there for 10-15 minutes until it completely dries. If you work on thin paper, the drying resin in the fixative can cause the paper to curl, so tape it down or press it flat as it dries. Grumbacher is another brand of workable fixative, and comes in a matte finish.

FYI, Daler Rowney has a fixative called Perfix that also comes in liquid form in a jar. The benefit of that is that you can go old-school and use a mouth atomizer to apply your spray. That takes some practice to get used to, but you should try it if you want to avoid the fumes from a spray can. Perfix is a final, not a workable fixative, however.

fixatif_charcoal-samples

One last thing, if you use charcoal to sketch on a canvas before painting in oil, you can use a fixative to prevent the oils from mingling with the charcoal. Be sure and only use a “workable” fixative in that case, and notice that the oil layer may dry a little more slowly than usual.

Links:
Krylon Workable Fixatif
Grumbacher Workable Fixative
Daler-Rowney Perfix
Mouth Atomizer at Dick Blick store

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Drawing Update 2: Watching Passing Clouds

May 3, 2014

Here’s an update on the charcoal drawing, showing just the area where I’ve been working.

passingclouds3

Starting the detail phase by working on the face forces me to go more slowly and carefully than usual, but I was anxious. I like how this is going so far.

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Here are the tools I’ve been using this time. Top to bottom: willow vine charcoal, charcoal pencil, small brush, and wooden knitting needle. I like using vine sticks since the length lets me get a softer touch. The pencil helps refine the drawing. The brush lets me smooth and lighten areas. The needle I use for keeping my drawing hand off the surface, like a mahl stick.