Started a new drawing of my model friend, Beverly. It will be a full figure, but for now I’m just showing the top section that I’ve got going. Not sure what I’ll do with the background yet. It’s 18 x 24″ on paper using a Uniball #207 ink pen.
Following the previous post, I decided to go ahead with the staining of the frame molding. Even though I didn’t like the splotchy look, I found I could even it out by painting over it with burnt umber acrylic that was a good match to the stain color. I kept the paint relatively thin to allow for some of the wood grain to still show through. You can see the effect of the stain that I applied first in the center detail. I then gave two coats of acrylic to the other areas, front and sides.
Here is the painting laying under the frame with a sheet of acrylic glazing cut to fit. I’ll give the frame a glossy spray coating tomorrow, and I still need to add backing and string a wire to the back. This will be delivered to the exhibit next week, so look for an announce here in a few days about the opening.
I got a response to the art I had entered for an upcoming show, and both pieces were accepted, including the painting I posted recently with a mat I had made. So, now I can go ahead and finish a frame for that painting.
I decided to make one myself out of raw wood instead of buying it in order to test out the 45 degree corner jig I made recently, which works fine. I also tested out some dark red mahogany stain on a sample piece of the molding.
I’m afraid I don’t like the way this wood takes the stain, however. It looks splotchy and appears like the wood was burnt in a fire. Not what I want. I can still use the molding, but will have to spray paint it a solid color. I also tested out a little bit of accent color of blue and gold on that interior pattern that I think might work, and a spray gloss finish. Anyway, I’ll finish putting the frame together and show the results after I get it painted.
I used a few pieces of scrap wood today to make a simple table saw jig to cut 45 degree angles for mitred corners. My push guide was not all that accurate, so this will help me cut better fitting corners for frames.
It’s made of two pieces of 1 x 2″ strips screwed together at 90 degree angles with the their ends cut at 45 degrees. I added to smaller strips of wood to the edges: one long one in the front to support tall wood pieces that might be cut, and a small strip to attach the jig to the push guide. The guide has two grooves in it for blots to attach the jig, but I didn’t have the right size bolts handy. In the meantime I can just use a clamp.
Still to do: If I add a piece of wood extension to the back of the jig where the push guide is, I can attach a wood strip on the bottom that fits into the table groove so I won’t have to use the push guide at all.
Here are a few photos from last night’s art opening event at the Artspace Gallery.
I’m happy and humbled to say that my drawing won the best in show “Committee’s Choice” award!
I’m getting a couple more pieces ready to enter into another show, and one of them I needed to place behind a mat. This is the gouache painting I finished a few months back, “Allan at the Boat Dock.”
I originally was thinking of a lighter shade for the mat, but this was the best color the store had that I liked, and I think it looks okay. I used a Logan Mat Cutting Kit model 525 to cut it, and it’s not the best model they sell, but works fine once you get the hang of it. This painting is 20 x 16″, and that’s about as large an opening it will cut.
I still need to attach it and the painting to a backing sheet of mat board. I’ve got a frame picked out that’s dark brown, or I may go with black. I’ll wait until I hear if it gets accepted before I decide.