Posts Tagged ‘wood’


Staining Wood Molding for a Frame

February 9, 2017

I got a response to the art I had entered for an upcoming show, and both pieces were accepted, including the painting I posted recently with a mat I had made. So, now I can go ahead and finish a frame for that painting.


I decided to make one myself out of raw wood instead of buying it in order to test out the 45 degree corner jig I made recently, which works fine. I also tested out some dark red mahogany stain on a sample piece of the molding.

I’m afraid I don’t like the way this wood takes the stain, however. It looks splotchy and appears like the wood was burnt in a fire. Not what I want. I can still use the molding, but will have to spray paint it a solid color. I also tested out a little bit of accent color of blue and gold on that interior pattern that I think might work, and a spray gloss finish. Anyway, I’ll finish putting the frame together and show the results after I get it painted.


Table Saw Jig for 45 Degree Mitre

February 5, 2017

I used a few pieces of scrap wood today to make a simple table saw jig to cut 45 degree angles for mitred corners. My push guide was not all that accurate, so this will help me cut better fitting corners for frames.


It’s made of two pieces of 1 x 2″ strips screwed together at 90 degree angles with the their ends cut at 45 degrees. I added to smaller strips of wood to the edges: one long one in the front to support tall wood pieces that might be cut, and a small strip to attach the jig to the push guide. The guide has two grooves in it for blots to attach the jig, but I didn’t have the right size bolts handy. In the meantime I can just use a clamp.

Still to do: If I add a piece of wood extension to the back of the jig where the push guide is, I can attach a wood strip on the bottom that fits into the table groove so I won’t have to use the push guide at all.


Homemade Table Easel version 3

September 12, 2016

Being between projects I decided I would take the time to make modifications to my last table top easel design.


The vertical arms are a little taller, and I added a sliding rail at the bottom so they can move forward slightly. There’s a front lip at the bottom that can slide forward about 3 inches to adjust the angle of the artwork from near vertical to about 30 degrees. Something new is a center brace that I can use for small pieces to sit higher up, and support taller artwork. The bottom is about 14 inches square, and the center brace goes up about 20 inches.


Making a Gallery Wrapped Canvas

April 21, 2015

I was preparing a new gesso panel for another painting, and while that was drying I thought I’d show the process I go through to make a gallery wrapped canvas. The purpose of a gallery wrapped canvas is to be able to hang the painting on the wall without having to place it in a frame. It has the canvas wrapped all the way around the edges of the strainer bars.


The canvas I’m building will have a final dimension of 16 x 20 inches. The wood strainer bars are made from Radiata Pine. They are 1×2″ size (exactly 3/4 x 1.5″) and cut 16 and 20 inches long. Each end has been mitered at 45 degrees on the 3/4″ side. There are 1/8″ rabbit grooves cut on the front side so that less of the wood will be touching the canvas. That prevents any possible indentations registering through. I’ve also cut 1/4″ grooves at the inside center of each where I will later place some cross braces. I’m using some thin polyester fabric since it was the only type I had available that was large enough.


Now I’m ready to glue the canvas to the inside of each corner. I cut a diagonal first from the inside corner of the wood to the outer corner of the canvas. I then apply the glue to the wood and canvas. I’m using an acid-free latex glue from Best-Test called “Paper Cement.” This works fine on thin fabric, but I’d need something stronger for thicker canvas. Spray adhesives work well if you mask off the area. The glue only needs to be strong enough to hold the canvas to the wood as I later put the two ends together. The wood itself will hold the canvas tight.


Once the glue has dried on all four corners and the canvas has been stuck to the ends of the wood, I turn the wood upright. I then fold the canvas in and staple it to the wood, repeating this for each corner.


After the corners are stapled, I staple the edges. First I staple the center of one side, and then the side directly opposite, pulling the canvas tight as I go. Next I staple to the right and left of each corner. This keeps the front nice and tight. The staples along this edge are about 1.5″ apart.


Finished! All that’s left to do is to make the center braces. Polyester fabric has an advantage of making nice sharp corners, but it can be hard to keep tight. Cotton or linen seem to have the opposite feature: they stretch well, but the corners can be bulky, and hard to fold over cleanly.


Table Easel Improvements

April 6, 2015

I made a few modifications to the mini table easel I built some time ago. I’ve been using it more frequently, so it needed to be sturdier and more functional. It’s 7″ tall, and now 13” square at the base.


A.> Added a center front brace to make the base sturdier, and support artwork at a steeper angle, about 60 degrees.
B.> I cut notches in the vertical supports. I can place a long dowel rod there to support wider artwork including stretched canvases.
C.> Added back bracing to keep it from tipping backwards with large artwork.

Future plan is to make it more adjustable. It would be nice to be able to raise or lower the vertical supports, and perhaps rotate them down to be more portable. I’d like to be able to pull out the front end so I could adjust the art to any angle I wanted.


That’s a 24” sheet of hardboard sitting on the easel. It’s very sturdy now.


Moving In

September 21, 2012

Yes, I’m still alive and well; although, very tired. I’ve finally moved all the big stuff into the new home, and trying to figure out where to put it all. I should get back to drawing and painting soon, and I greatly appreciate those of you who have stuck around over the last few days.

On another note, I recently upgraded my old router to a newer model with a table. Right now all I can say is it turns off and on, so I still have to see how it groves. I’ll just add that to the list of things to do.


Antique Wood Planers

December 20, 2011

The holiday has been keeping me hopping and distracted lately, but here’s a post to hopefully tide you over for a little while until I can back to the drawing board. These are two antique wood planers of my father’s. The blades need sharpening but they both are in excellent shape otherwise. Thanks, Dad. I’ll take good care of them.