Posts Tagged ‘Framing’

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New Idea for Mounting Drafting Film (Mylar)

November 6, 2017

An old post of mine regarding the use of drafting film as an art surface remains one of my most popular posts with ongoing discussions today. The main concern is how to properly adhere this surface to a firm support for display purposes. All glues I’ve tried are no better than adequate, allowing the film to be easily pulled away from any type of firm backing. As a result, this surface is not my favorite to work with, but one I continue to explore ideas to improve this problem. One such idea is to not use glue at all, but instead use physical force to sandwich the film between two supports.

I got this idea by looking at clear packaging supplies online. You can buy gift boxes of various sizes made usually with PET plastic, but some are also made with polypropylene (“PP”) which is the same material Borden & Riley’s “Denril” film is made from.

To start exploring this idea, I took a large sheet of Grafix “Wet Media” film, and fit it to a 9 x 12″ piece of foamcore that is 1/4″ thick. In order to get the sheet to lay flat to the foamcore, I scored the film with a metal ruler to get a sharp bend.

Using cellophane tape to hold the film in place, I glued another sheet of foamcore to the back to press and hold the film.

The reason I didn’t fold over all four sides is that would require cutting the film corners, like stretching a canvas, and that makes the film easy to tear. You certainly could do that, carefully. In fact, that’s how the gift boxes are made, but it’s not necessary here if this panel is displayed in a frame where the sides won’t be seen. If you were to do a sort of “gallery wrapped” display, then you’d want to cut the corners to fold over all four sides. In that case, I’d recommend protecting the corners somehow.

This particular film is glossy, and since the whole surface is not glued flat, it has a slight waviness that can be distracting. That would not be noticeable if you were using frosted film.

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Cutting a Mat for Painting of Allan

January 30, 2017

I’m getting a couple more pieces ready to enter into another show, and one of them I needed to place behind a mat. This is the gouache painting I finished a few months back, “Allan at the Boat Dock.”

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I originally was thinking of a lighter shade for the mat, but this was the best color the store had that I liked, and I think it looks okay. I used a Logan Mat Cutting Kit model 525 to cut it, and it’s not the best model they sell, but works fine once you get the hang of it. This painting is 20 x 16″, and that’s about as large an opening it will cut.

I still need to attach it and the painting to a backing sheet of mat board. I’ve got a frame picked out that’s dark brown, or I may go with black. I’ll wait until I hear if it gets accepted before I decide.

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“Park Serenade” Drawing Framed for Show

January 26, 2017

I received word that my new drawing was accepted for the local art show, so I picked up a frame that I think works well with it. I’m giving it the title of “Park Serenade.” All I need to do now is string a wire on the back, and it’ll be ready to drop off next Monday morning.

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The exhibit will be at the Artspace gallery in Round Rock, TX with the opening event on February 2nd and closing on Feb.26th. Stop by if you will be in the neighborhood.

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Artwork Shipping Crate Modified

December 15, 2016

I added a few more modifications to my shipping crate that I posted a few days ago.

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I had a couple more styrofoam corners, so I cut those into “L” shapes to fill in the sides of the crate. I also needed to fill in the void inside the box, so I attached some pieces of foam and foamcore around the outside of the crate. It slips into the box nice and snug. Now there’s plenty of foam and air space around the painting with nothing touching the surface. It weighs about 9 pounds.

This needs to arrive in Houston by the 13th of January, so I’ve got plenty of time, but I’ll probably wait until after Christmas to ship it. I’ll post more details about the show in a few weeks.

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Making a Shipping Crate for a Painting

December 10, 2016

I’m taking a short break from the drawing to get my painting ready to ship next month for the show in Houston. First I want to show how I finished the backing of the frame.

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I placed a sheet of 1/4″ black foamcore to fill the back opening, and to hold it in place I’m going to use these four pieces of veneer that I’ve cut into large triangles.

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I spray painted them black, and used small screws to hold the backing in place. I also added the hanging wire. It’s now ready to pack.

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My lightweight packing crate is made from styrofoam and 1/8″ Luann plywood. I got a few styrofoam corners at a local moving supply store. These are glued to a bottom plywood panel, and will suspend the frame inside the crate. I cut off a piece of another set of four corners to make “L” shapes that I glued to the top panel. This will fit tightly around the outside of the frame at the sides. I may add a large sheet of mat board to sit on the frame and keep any dust out. It’s important that no packing material ever touches the surface of the painting, especially any plastic or foam.

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Here’s it all put together. I added some black heavy-duty tape to help hold the pieces together. The moving supply store had a box for pictures and mirrors that will be large enough, but I’ll need to glue some foamcore and styrofoam pieces to this to fill the inside of the box.

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Framing Painting for Upcoming Show

December 3, 2016

I had entered one of my paintings, “After Dinner”, in a show down in Houston, and received word a few days ago that it was accepted. I decided to put it into a better frame, so I ordered some pre-cut molding online, going with a metallic look to fit with the kitchen theme. The pieces were delivered yesterday.

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When I did a dry fit with the art, I thought it looked a little too dark for my liking. This morning I picked up some silver gilding paint at a hobby store, and gave it a try. I think this works better. I’ll wait for the glue to dry, and then give it another coat.

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Framing Tip: Cutting Acrylic on a Tablesaw

May 8, 2016

One of the unique tricks to building a frame for a drawing is cutting the acrylic glazing sheet. The tool most often recommended for this procedure is a special hooked knife designed just for this, but I can’t comfortably tell you the number of times that has gone wrong for me. You have to score the acrylic in several passes, it’s hard to keep a straight line on the smooth sheet, and it almost never snaps cleanly. Fortunately, I’ve discovered it’s much easier to do this with a tablesaw. Acrylic will not cut like wood, however. If you try to cut all the way through, the blade will just destroy the sheet. Here’s how I do it.

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First, I’ve cut some cardboard to the size of the frame interior to use as a guide, taping it to the edges of the acrylic. I’ve also taped some newspaper to the front to protect the acrylic from getting scratched while pushing it on the table.

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Set the blade depth to cut no more than halfway through the acrylic. Just like using a knife, you only want to score the sheet, not cut all the way through in one pass.

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The acrylic snaps off easily. There will be a few rough burs along the edge, but that will scrape off easily with a utility knife, and get smooth with some sand paper. You can also flip the sheet over, and carefully saw off any excess on that side.

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Here the sheet is placed in the back of the frame. By the way, that’s my new frame I bought the other day all glued together. I just need to insert the artwork and fix the backing.