Archive for the ‘General’ Category

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Sinopia Casein Gesso Update: Jar Problem

May 2, 2017

I’m interrupting my series of posts on the new painting to point out a problem I discovered today with a jar of Casein Gesso from Sinopia. This follows up on two posts I made in the past: one is a review of this product, and another was how I store paint containers like this upside down.

I bought this jar of gesso a little over a year ago, and keep it inside a drawer in my studio. I haven’t used it in awhile, but today I decided to open the drawer to try it out again, only to find the contents had leaked out. The lid was screwed on tight, but that wasn’t enough to stop air from getting in, and some of the contents leaking onto the drawer. Fortunately that was plastic, so it was easy to clean (that’s what that clean piece of gel is in the picture,) but I had to use a plumber’s wrench to get the lid off, and found that about 1/3 of the paint had dried out. That rounded disk inside the lid is about 1/2 inch layer of dried paint, and more dried on the sides of the jar. It had been stored upside-down.

As I mentioned in the article link above, I store containers like this upside down just for this reason. Screw-on lids of this type make very poor containers for paint, since air gets in easily. Even if this was stored upright, air gets in, and would have dried out the paint even worse. Some jars you can buy come with cushions inside the lid, sponges or thick paper, that help seal the jar. Another solution I’ve used in the past is to wrap wide tape around the outside. That has to be replaced frequently, but it’s better than throwing away paint.

Metal cans for paint make a better seal than a screw-on lid, unfortunately, a quart size can is the smallest available. Tubes are also better since the opening is smaller, so less air gets in. The best option is to use it up quickly. Prime several sheets of paper stock or canvas that you have on hand, and don’t store the left over paint for very long.

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Appreciating the artist McClelland Barclay

April 14, 2017

McClelland Barclay was an American illustrator of the early 20th Century, born in St. Louis in 1891. He became well known for his work in magazine fiction, advertisements, and posters.

Chief among the advertising clients was the Body by Fisher division of General Motors that began in the mid 1920’s. He had developed a particular female character in his work up to then, and she fit into this Fisher campaign as a symbol of style and elegance, soon to be known as the “Fisher Body Girl.” The model he used was Nan McClelland, his niece at the time, who later became his wife. He had a habit, in fact, of marrying his models; three different ones.

Barclay enlisted in the Navy in 1939, but still continued doing commercial work during the war. Unfortunately, he lost his life on a mission in 1943.

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Imagine 2017 Art Opening

March 5, 2017

Here are a few photos I took at last night’s art opening at the Imagine exhibit. The last two pictures show my drawing and painting that are in the show. It will be up until May 5th.

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imagine2017_03

imagine2017_04

imagine2017_01

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Imagine 2017 Exhibit This Weekend

February 27, 2017

I’ll have two works of art in an exhibit opening this weekend, Imagine 2017.

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These are the two artworks. The exhibit will open this Saturday evening, March 4th, and run until May 5th at the Texas State University building in Round Rock, TX. Please stop by if you’re going to be in the Austin area.

alice-allan_imagine2017

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Framing My Painting of Allan

February 10, 2017

Following the previous post, I decided to go ahead with the staining of the frame molding. Even though I didn’t like the splotchy look, I found I could even it out by painting over it with burnt umber acrylic that was a good match to the stain color. I kept the paint relatively thin to allow for some of the wood grain to still show through. You can see the effect of the stain that I applied first in the center detail. I then gave two coats of acrylic to the other areas, front and sides.

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Here is the painting laying under the frame with a sheet of acrylic glazing cut to fit. I’ll give the frame a glossy spray coating tomorrow, and I still need to add backing and string a wire to the back. This will be delivered to the exhibit next week, so look for an announce here in a few days about the opening.

allan_dock-framed1

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Staining Wood Molding for a Frame

February 9, 2017

I got a response to the art I had entered for an upcoming show, and both pieces were accepted, including the painting I posted recently with a mat I had made. So, now I can go ahead and finish a frame for that painting.

stained-molding

I decided to make one myself out of raw wood instead of buying it in order to test out the 45 degree corner jig I made recently, which works fine. I also tested out some dark red mahogany stain on a sample piece of the molding.

I’m afraid I don’t like the way this wood takes the stain, however. It looks splotchy and appears like the wood was burnt in a fire. Not what I want. I can still use the molding, but will have to spray paint it a solid color. I also tested out a little bit of accent color of blue and gold on that interior pattern that I think might work, and a spray gloss finish. Anyway, I’ll finish putting the frame together and show the results after I get it painted.

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Table Saw Jig for 45 Degree Mitre

February 5, 2017

I used a few pieces of scrap wood today to make a simple table saw jig to cut 45 degree angles for mitred corners. My push guide was not all that accurate, so this will help me cut better fitting corners for frames.

45degree_tablesaw-jig2

It’s made of two pieces of 1 x 2″ strips screwed together at 90 degree angles with the their ends cut at 45 degrees. I added to smaller strips of wood to the edges: one long one in the front to support tall wood pieces that might be cut, and a small strip to attach the jig to the push guide. The guide has two grooves in it for blots to attach the jig, but I didn’t have the right size bolts handy. In the meantime I can just use a clamp.

Still to do: If I add a piece of wood extension to the back of the jig where the push guide is, I can attach a wood strip on the bottom that fits into the table groove so I won’t have to use the push guide at all.